Founded in 1960 by British jeweler Laurence Graff, the Graff brand has emerged as one of the most celebrated names in luxury jewelry worldwide. Renowned for acquiring, designing, and selling some of the world’s rarest and most valuable diamonds, Graff’s journey from a small workshop in London to a multinational luxury powerhouse is a testament to the artistry and relentless pursuit of excellence in jewelry.
pear shape side stones, platinum – Photo from Graff Website
Beginnings: Laurence Graff’s Vision for Fine Jewelry
Laurence Graff was born in Stepney, a district in London’s East End, in 1938, during a time when the city was rebuilding from the devastation of World War II. He left school at just 14, driven by a fascination with the jewelry craft. Graff began his journey as a jeweler’s apprentice, first cleaning floors and learning basic jewelry repairs. His determination, however, quickly caught the attention of his mentors. By his late teens, Graff had started creating his own pieces, driven by an entrepreneurial spirit and vision for beauty and innovation.
In 1960, Graff established his first jewelry business and workshop in London’s Hatton Garden, the historic jewelry district. Graff Jewelry was born out of a dedication to craftsmanship and innovation, qualities that would soon distinguish it from other brands. Laurence Graff sought to push the boundaries of traditional jewelry design, aspiring to create unique pieces that would captivate and inspire.
The Quest for Rare Diamonds
One of the defining aspects of Graff’s brand is its dedication to sourcing, acquiring, and transforming some of the world’s most extraordinary diamonds. Graff’s understanding of diamonds and his instinct for recognizing stones of exceptional beauty became evident early in his career. The brand’s philosophy centered on using only the highest quality stones, with a focus on creating unique designs that complemented each gemstone’s natural beauty.
Throughout the 1970s and beyond, Graff began acquiring notable diamonds that would become synonymous with his brand’s luxury reputation. One of the most significant acquisitions was the acquisition and recutting of the Star of Bombay, a 47.39-carat sapphire, as well as the Idol’s Eye, a 70.21-carat diamond with a storied history. Laurence Graff’s ability to transform rare gemstones into iconic jewelry helped the brand quickly rise to prominence.
This penchant for rare gems has persisted throughout Graff’s history. Some of the most famous diamonds associated with the brand include:
- The Graff Pink: A 24.78-carat diamond, Graff purchased it at auction in 2010 for a record-breaking $46 million. Its intense pink color and near-perfect clarity made it one of the most coveted diamonds of its time.
- The Lesedi La Rona: In 2017, Graff acquired this remarkable 1,109-carat rough diamond, the largest gem-quality diamond discovered in over a century. After a meticulous cutting process, the diamond yielded numerous smaller stones, including a stunning 302.37-carat gem, the largest emerald-cut diamond in the world.
- The Paragon Diamond: An asymmetrical, flawless 137.82-carat diamond, famous for its unique “kite-shaped” cut. Graff’s setting emphasized its distinctive qualities, creating a modern classic.
Graff’s has many more incredibly and unique gems in its collection, and I highly encourage you to go check them out on their official website . Their success in obtaining and cutting such stones solidified their reputation as a brand synonymous with luxury and exclusivity, attracting collectors, celebrities, and royalty from across the globe.
The Graff Workshop: The Heart of Craftsmanship
A cornerstone of Graff’s brand philosophy is the importance of craftsmanship. Unlike many luxury brands that outsource production, Graff has maintained an in-house workshop where its artisans transform rough diamonds into exquisite jewelry pieces. These skilled craftspeople work with cutting-edge technology alongside traditional techniques to ensure each piece meets Graff’s uncompromising standards.
The process of creating a Graff jewel begins with a meticulous selection of diamonds and gemstones, chosen for their unique attributes and potential. Designers and artisans work closely to envision the best settings and arrangements for each stone, resulting in pieces that often take hundreds of hours to complete. From intricate necklaces to statement rings, Graff’s workshop has produced some of the most admired jewelry pieces in the world.
Graff’s commitment to crafting each piece in-house has enabled the brand to retain control over quality and design, setting it apart in an industry where outsourcing is common. This dedication to craftsmanship reflects Laurence Graff’s enduring belief in the transformative power of jewelry artistry.
This is one of my personal favorite Graff Haute Joaillerie pieces with diamonds and Emeralds
Graff’s Global Expansion and Iconic Showrooms
As Graff’s reputation grew, so did its presence. Throughout the 1970s and 1980s, the brand began expanding internationally, establishing a presence in major luxury markets, including New York, Tokyo, and Geneva. Today, Graff has over 50 boutiques worldwide, from Beverly Hills to Hong Kong, each showcasing the brand’s exquisite creations and setting a new standard for luxury retail experiences.
One of Graff’s most iconic stores is its flagship location on London’s Bond Street, a destination renowned for its high-end retail. This flagship boutique embodies the Graff aesthetic—elegance, refinement, and an invitation to explore some of the world’s rarest and most beautiful jewels.
In addition to its flagship stores, Graff has also established partnerships with renowned luxury hotels and brands, such as the Four Seasons, aligning itself with the pinnacle of global luxury. This expansion reflects Graff’s commitment to bringing its signature jewelry to discerning customers around the world, enhancing its status as a truly international brand.
Innovating and Leading in Diamond Cutting and Technology
A significant aspect of Graff’s impact on the jewelry industry lies in its innovation in diamond cutting and technology. The brand was one of the first to embrace new diamond-cutting techniques, including laser technology, which allows for even greater precision in shaping and polishing diamonds. This technology enables Graff to maximize each stone’s potential, enhancing its brilliance and overall aesthetic.
Graff’s expertise in diamond cutting was demonstrated with the Lesedi La Rona, where the brand invested significant time and resources into studying the diamond before cutting it. Graff’s skilled artisans produced multiple stones from this rough diamond, with the largest stone, a 302.37-carat diamond, representing a new benchmark in diamond craftsmanship.
A Legacy of Philanthropy and Giving Back
Beyond its focus on luxury and craftsmanship, Graff has also been a proponent of philanthropy and corporate responsibility. The brand actively supports several charitable initiatives, particularly in education and healthcare. Laurence Graff founded the FACET Foundation (For Africa’s Children Every Time), which funds projects in sub-Saharan Africa, providing education and healthcare opportunities to children in need.
Graff’s philanthropy reflects the brand’s understanding of the challenges facing communities in Africa, which is the source of many of the diamonds that have helped define its legacy. Through its charitable efforts, Graff seeks to contribute positively to the communities that have played a significant role in its history.
Graff Today: A Symbol of Timeless Luxury
In the world of luxury jewelry, Graff stands as a symbol of sophistication, excellence, and exclusivity. From the remarkable diamonds it acquires to the masterful designs that bring these stones to life, Graff has created a legacy rooted in beauty, innovation, and integrity. Its jewelry continues to captivate collectors and connoisseurs worldwide, each piece telling a story of artistic dedication and passion.
Under the leadership of Laurence Graff, now succeeded by his son Francois Graff as CEO, the brand remains dedicated to the values that have defined it for over six decades. The Graff legacy endures not only in its iconic jewelry but also in its unwavering commitment to quality, craftsmanship, and beauty.
Thank you for reading this far !
For a deep dive into Graff’s current jewelry collection make sure to activate notifications to the blog as, I will be preparing an article in the next few weeks about them!
